Natural wine asks very little of you and very little of the kitchen. Serve it slightly chilled, decant it barely, and build the meal around things that also ferment: bread, cheese, charcuterie, pickles.

Our kitchen team tasted through sixty bottles this season to find the dozen we would actually open at home. The pattern that emerged was unfussy — juicy reds for the grill, cloudy whites for the sea, pet-nats for the table where nobody can agree.

The recipes here are deliberately small: a plate of butter beans with sage, a loaf torn rather than sliced, a bowl of cherries macerated in the last of the bottle.

Wine is the conversation; the food is simply the good manners.